The Christian feast day of Epiphany, Jan 6, is when three kings from the East were said to have visited the newborn Christ child. Western pastry chefs have added their own tradition: la galette des rois (king cake). Originally, a little bean was hidden amid the sweetness of the puff pastry and frangipani, but since 1870, a figurine has been the treasure in the cake, and the person who finds the trinket in a slice becomes king or queen for the day.

At Flo restaurants in Beijing, chefs David Thiery and Andy Choy follow an original recipe created in 1968. In France, they say, the cake is part of celebrations in every family and between friends and colleagues: A paper crown is included with the cake to crown the "king" who finds the figurine in their serving.

King cakes are available throughout the month of January at many Western bakeries and restaurants around China, including Flo Maison and all Cafe Flo locations in Beijing. A 16 cm Flo cake is 96 yuan ($14); a 22 cm cake is 158 yuan.

Mike Peters